Todays post will deal with finishing the work we started on the group of hackberries. I have to apologize from the start for the lack of photo's along the way. Its a little hard to remember to stop and take photo's when you're bare rooting 27 trees by yourself. Some of the smaller ones are hidden behind the bigger ones but there are 27 of them in this photo.
I knew that I was going to have to reduce the root balls considerably in order to get all the trees in the pot. I literally bare rooted everything, combing and washing out all the existing soil and cut off a major portion of each rootball. I needed to keep enough roots to insure the health of the trees but also get enough soil and root removed to fit them in the pot.
The bigger trunked trees had all already been previously root pruned so I was able to reduce them very easily. They had no big heavy roots so it was just a matter of removing the soil and a good trimming back. This is more than enough root for this tree. Another objective of the root pruning was to get the root balls as flat as possible.
The smaller trees were treated the same way, bare rooted and cut back hard.
There are not many photos of the root work because once I started on them I worked quickly to minimize the amount of time the roots were exposed.
As each tree was bare rooted and trimmed I place it in a tub with a little water so the fine roots didn't dry out. Once I had all the root work done I started to place the trees in the pot. Again there are not many photos of this process, its really hard to remember to stop and take a photo and keep the trees in place at the same time.
The placement of trees in a forest planting can be a topic that generates much discussion. Some folks have specific "rules" they follow, others just put the trees in place wherever they feel like it. Personally I do it by instinct. I know its right for me when it feels right. I'll start with the biggest tree and pick a spot for it. All the others are placed based on that tree. A few guidelines are worth mentioning though. I think one of the most important things is to have a good variety of trunk sizes. Except for where they were clear cut and replanted you very rarely see forests with trees all the same size. Typically there are generations of trees growing in one area. The space between each trunk should vary as well, some trees should be closer, others further apart but try to avoid any kind of pattern. Each tree is going to need its own space to grow in. The lower branches on the bigger trees are removed to make room for some of the shorter one to grow under them.
Here I have placed the major trees in the pot. After quite a bit of trial and error I decided on this placement.
As each tree is put in place I use soil mix to hold it there. I'll first put a small mound of soil down where I want the tree and place the tree on the mound and work it down into the mix. Then I'll put more soil on top of the root ball and using the chopstick work it into the roots enough to keep the tree in place. I don't want to use too much mix at this point or it may become difficult to get the trees spaced correctly.
In the above photo most of the trees are in place. The ones on the outer edges lean outwards, while the ones towards the center of the forest are more upright. There is a variety of spaces between trunks, some right on top of each other others further away. Here is a closer look at the spacing and orientation of the trunks.
Some frown on having any trunks that cross another, but that doesn't bother me. I think its more natural looking to let a trunk or two cross or lean. Below is another view from the left side of the planting.
After spending about 45 minutes working soil mix into all the roots and insuring each tree was stable I watered the planting and covered the soil surface with decomposed granite. As the planting grows I'll add some moss in places to soften up the starkness of the soil and add to the naturalness of the scene.
Now I will let the planting settle and start to grow. This spring I'll let it grow unchecked until the end of March or so to let it regain strength and to generate more root growth. I'll lightly prune it then to avoid any branches growing too much and becoming out of proportion. Next spring I'll probably do some work on a few of the apexes and the branches.
Within a couple of years this planting will have a lush crown and quite a bit of ramification. Hackberry leaves will reduce to about a 1/4 inch or less and will make a very believable and proportionate canopy.
They also ramify well so it will be a very attractive group in winter time with no leaves to hide the branching. By this time next year the roots will be growing into each other and they will start to function as one instead of individually for each tree. Within two years I'll need to transplant and I sholud be able to remove the entire planting from the pot as one unit.
I'll post some pictures in a month or so when this is fully leafed out.
I hope you all enjoyed this installment and maybe even become motivated to try your hand at a forest planting.
As always I want to thank you for taking the time to read my blog and look forward to any questions or comments.
very cool !ReplyDelete
Nice work on the forest. Myself have a few Celtis forests but yours is very nice. I like it that you have reduced the thick roots before the time because it is quite difficult to space the trees if there are too much thick roots.ReplyDelete
very nice post.. i am interested in tree and tree transplanting information and i got really good knowledge about bonsai.. thanks for this post.. keep sharing..ReplyDelete
Thanks, I'll keep sharing and hope you keep reading.ReplyDelete